How WWF Ensures Sustainable Leather Sourcing

Leather is often regarded as a natural and biodegradable alternative to plastic, but its environmental impact extends beyond disposal.

Cattle ranching, the main source of leather, is a major driver of deforestation, particularly in the Amazon. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has launched the Deforestation-Free Leather Fund, encouraging companies to invest in sustainable leather supply chains.

"While leather is a by-product of the beef and dairy industries, it still carries responsibility for embedded impacts and emissions in the supply chain," says Fernando Bellese, Senior Director for Beef and Leather Supply Chains at WWF. 

“Companies that use leather, including those in the fashion, automotive and furniture industries, have unique leverage within the supply chain to encourage and support more sustainable practices by influencing beef and tannery operations.”

Challenges in leather sourcing

Leather is produced as a by-product of beef, but demand for hides does not always align with the demand for meat.

In 2019 alone, over 5 million hides were discarded in the US—enough to manufacture 110 million footballs. This waste highlights inefficiencies in procurement and sourcing.

One of the biggest challenges in leather supply chains is traceability. The sourcing process is long and complex, making it difficult to determine the origin of raw materials. Cattle ranching contributes to significant deforestation, with millions of acres in Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay converted for grazing each year. Without proper sourcing oversight, companies risk being linked to environmental harm.

Leather alternatives, often made from fossil fuel-derived plastics, present their own sustainability issues. Many synthetic substitutes do not biodegrade and have limited reuse or recycling potential. This leaves businesses facing tough choices when sourcing materials for products.

Investing in sustainable leather procurement

The WWF's Deforestation-Free Leather Fund is designed to help companies support sustainable sourcing.

Initially targeting operations in Brazil, the fund aims to expand to other South American beef-producing nations.

By focusing on regions with the highest risk of environmental degradation, it seeks to ensure that leather procurement is deforestation- and conversion-free.

Tapestry, the New York-based parent company of brands such as Coach and Kate Spade, has already made a financial commitment to the fund. This follows the Tapestry Foundation's US$3m grant to WWF in 2022, which aimed to improve traceability in Brazil’s leather supply chain.

"Tapestry’s investment in the fund continues and expands the company’s commitment to addressing climate change through long-term sustainable solutions and immediate actions," says Logan Duran, Vice President of ESG and Sustainability at Tapestry.

"We believe strongly in the importance of sustainability in leather manufacturing, and this commitment reaffirms that belief. We invite other companies, both within and outside our industry, to join us in these efforts."

WWF will oversee the fund's governance and day-to-day management, with a target of raising US$10m from companies in its first three years.

Enhancing traceability and market access

The fund is set to support initiatives in three key areas:

• Developing traceability systems to ensure responsible sourcing
• Investing in farm-level initiatives to increase the supply of deforestation-free leather
• Supporting farm regularisation to enhance market access

A significant goal is to implement individual traceability for 1 million cattle within three years.

The initiative also aims to restore 45,000 hectares of degraded land, contributing to more sustainable land management in South America.

With companies increasingly under pressure to improve procurement strategies and reduce environmental impact, initiatives like the Deforestation-Free Leather Fund offer a practical solution.

By investing in better sourcing and supply chain transparency, businesses can play a crucial role in shaping a more sustainable leather industry.

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